Horse Care

Is clover poisionous to horses?

Alsike clover - Trifolium hybridum

Not all clovers are poisionous to horses but  the Alsike Clover, Trifolium hybridum, is toxic and can prove fatal.

Alsike clover grows very tall, 38cms - 76 cms  (15-30 inches) in height with a small 1.3 cms (½-inch) diameter pink flower, which forms at the ends of secondary branches from the main stem. The non-toxic white clover is low growing and  grows from a creeping stem, leaves and flowers rise individually from the horizontal stem.

The entire Alsike clover plant is toxic, both in its fresh and dried state, care must be taken that Alsike clover is not present in hay or haylage.

Alsike clover is know to cause two syndromes, photosensitization and big liver syndrome. Horses show the photosensitization syndrome with short-term exposure, while liver damage and enlargement is usually associated with long-term exposure.

Symptoms of photosensitization:

• Lining of eyelids, or conjunctiva, become red and swollen
• Inflammation and lesions of the muzzle, mouth, tongue, eyes, eyelids, and ears, with discharge from the lesions. 

Symptoms of" big liver" disease:

• Jaundice
• Nervousness
• Digestive disorders; "off feed"
• Brownish urine
• Clay-coloured faeces 
• Neurological signs - walking in circles, disoriented, and head-pressing, among others.

 

Alsike clover poisioning can result in death.

Urgent veterinary assistance is required.

(Image source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Trifolium_hybridum01.jpg)

My son / daughter wants a pony - should I buy my child a pony?

There is a lot to consider before entering into horse ownership, can you afford a horse and it's upkeep financially and time wise? Where will you keep the pony and do you or your child really have the knowledge to enable you to look after and care for the pony correctly?

If your child is badgering you to buy them a pony go through the list of required skills below and get them to answer honestly. If they don't yet have the skills required for horse or pony ownership help them to achieve them first before thinking about a pony ownership.

• Can your child ride to walk, trot and canter?

• Can your child jump a small course of show jumps?

• Has your child been having riding lessons for at least 2 years?

• Has your child ridden a variety of different ponies?

• Has your child been out on hacks?

• Does your child know the Highway Code as it relates to horses?

• Does your child understand how evolution gave us the animal we have today?

• Does your child understand a horses body language?

• Can your child catch a pony from the field?

• Can your child lead a pony and tie it safely?

• Has your child know how to groom a pony and pick out it's feet?

• Does your child know how to tack a pony up and adjust incorrectly fitting tack?

• Does your child know how to put a rug on a pony?

• Has your child ever mucked out a stable?

• Does your child know about the different types of bedding available?

• Has your child ever poo picked a field?

• Does your child understand the rules of feeding and watering a horse or pony?

• Can your child recognize when the horses feet are in good condition and when they are not?

• Does your child know anything about pasture management?

• Can your child recognize poisonous plants?

• Does your cild understand the importance of preventative health care ie. vaccinations, worming, dental care?

• Does your child have knowledge of basic first aid?

• Could your child spot lameness in a horse?

• Does your child know the symptoms of colic?

• Would your child know when to call the vet?

• Does your child know the signs of a healthy horse and the signs of an unwell horse?

 

 

Rodent Control in and around the stable or barn

Do you have unwelcome stable guests?

  Some say we’re never more than a few feet away from a rat and let’s be honest the stable / barn environment is a wonderful place for a rodent, be it rat or mouse: warm, dry, plentiful nesting materials and food. So what can we do to help eradicate rodents in the stable? Here are our top tips for rodent control around the stable yard.

Clean & Tidy :

Avoid feed spillage.

Feed should be kept in metal containers with tight fitting lids.

Sweep up any food spillages and dispose of in a metal dustbin with lid.

Keep feeds prepared in advance in rodent proof containers.

Don’t allow grass and vegetation to grown long around the stables, keep it trimmed low with a strimmer or lawn mower.

When mucking out make sure you regularly remove the “banks” of straw at sides and corners to prevent rodents nesting in them.

Store rugs etc in sealed containers, don’t heap them up in corners, they make great nesting areas.

 

Cats & Dogs

Many stable yards use a cat or terrier or both to help keep the rodent population down, although not completely effective it will help and some cat rescue charities have working mousers available for adoption.

If you use a cat or a dog great care must be taken if using poison.

Also remember rodents will eat cat and dog food as well, don’t leave it lying around in bowls uneaten and store any feed in metal bins with tight lids.

Poisons

Poisons should only be used to manufacturers’ instructions and only in a specially purchased baiting box. Care must be taken with the use of poisons around children, other animals and wildlife such as birds.

Trapping

Traps are often the best solution, make sure they are carefully baited and set up correctly safely away from pets and other wildlife. Live traps aren’t recommended as rodents will often return to their territory after you release them!

Rodent Proofing

Steel wool can be used to block existing rat holes.

Cover drain pipe spouts with wire mesh.

The area under pallets makes is perfect for rodents, avoid using them if possible.

Rodents love hollow walls, if you’re having a new stable or barn built avoid them, if you have hollow walls consider removing one board.

Repair any holes that may be used for entry.

Snakes

If you do have snakes around your yard don’t disturb them as they make great rodent controllers!

 

The above are a few tips to help keep your stable / barn rodent free.

 

Fire Safety at the Stable / Barn - a few suggestions

Here are a few suggestions for fire prevention and emergency management:

The NO SMOKING rule around stables should be strictly adhered to by everyone, no exceptions. Post NO SMOKING signs where they are easily visible and make sure everyone complies.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS should be checked annually and recharged by a professional, everyone should be trained on how to use a fire extinguisher. It’s recommended that fire extinguishers should be placed by the electrical box and at 30 / 40 foot intervals around the yard / barn. Fire extinguishers should be next to each barn exit.

WATER in the event of a fire an external water supply is essential for fire fighters make sure you have one.

ELECTRICS – all electrics, wiring, lighting etc should be installed and checked by a professional electrician. Any electrical equipment eg. Clippers etc should be unplugged after use and stored safely.

HAY & STRAW – should be stored away from the stables / barn. Particular attention is required for the storage of newly cut hay which can reach temperatures of 150 degrees or higher.

TIDYNESS – Regular cleaning will prevent a build up of combustibles such as hay, cobwebs etc thus helping to prevent the spread of fire. Baling twine should be removed from the vicinity of stables / barns and stored elsewhere or safely disposed of.

DOORS – should always be accessible and kept unblocked even those that are not in use, check that they open freely and easily.

TRACTORS – tractors, machinery, fuel etc should be stored well away from the stable / barn area.

FIRE DRILL – have a plan and make sure that everyone on the yard knows what to do in the event of fire.

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS – should be attached to the wall by the stable telephone.

ADDRESS – Along with emergency telephone numbers make sure that the stables / barns full physical address is kept by the telephone along with any special directions for drivers if applicable.

HEAD COLLARS – Every horse should have a head collar and lead rope hanging on the stable door so they can be led to safety if the stables / barn need to be evacuated.

EVACUATION – Designate a securely fenced paddock away from the stables / barn where the horses can be safely kept in the event of fire.

Remove horses closest to the exits first.

Lead one horse at a time.

Lead horses to the “safe area” making sure they are safely secured before releasing.

Maintain human safety at all times.

The above are just a few suggestions that will help to make your stable yard / barn a safer place but they are not fully comprehensive and professional advice from a fire safety expert is highly recommended in planning your fire safety plan.

List of UK Equine Notifiable Diseases

Some equine diseases, although relatively rare in the UK, must by law be reported to the local Animal Health Office this is to ensure that the diseases aren't introduced into the UK.

Equine Infectious Anaemia (EIA)

Equine Viral Arteritis (EVA)

Contagious Equine Metritis (CEM)

Anthrax

African Horse Sickness (AHS)

Equine Viral Encephalomyelitis (EVE, EEE, WEE, VEE)

West Nile Virus (WNV)

Rabies

Dourine

Glanders / Farcy

Epizootic Lymphangitis

Vesticular Stomatitis

 

Strangles, Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention of Streptococcus Equi Infection

Strangles is a highly contagious infectious disease caused by the bacteria Streptococcus equi which affects the lymph nodes.

Under 5's, sick horses, horses with compromised immune systems, herd horses, stud farms, racing stables, livery yards and riding school horses are more susceptible because of the way the disease is spread. Strangles is spread via the bacteria Stretococcus equi by direct contact, contaminated food, water, equipment or people's hands/clothing. Horses can also catch the disease by inhalation or parasitic infestation. The bacteria can survive for long periods in a carrier horse or in the environment in the right conditions.

Strangles itself is not usually life threatening, however if it is left untreated it can develop into "bastard strangles" which can prove fatal. If Strangles is left untreated the lymph nodes  can abscessate. Abscesses will normally burst and drain but in severe cases they can become so large that they can crush a horses' windpipe and suffocate it.

The bacteria can also overwhelm the lymph nodes and spread throughout the horse causing abscesses in the lungs, intestine and brain, this is "bastard strangles" which can prove fatal.

Symptoms include:

Depression.

Loss of appetite.

Difficulty in swallowing.

Swelling in the throat area.

Nasal discharge.

High temperature, as high as 40degrees C (104 degrees F).

Coughing.

Lymph nodes may abscessate and discharge pus in throat area and under jaw.

Treatment:

A horse with suspected Strangles should be immediately isolated, away from all other horses before calling your vet.

The vet will perform a physical examination of the horse,take thoat swabs and samples of any discharging pus and discuss treatment.

The horse will need to be kept in isolation in a warm, dry environment and be fed soft, palatable feeds.

The abscesses should be fermented with hot packs to aid draining, in severe cases they may need to be drained surgically.

Your horse should begin to show signs of inprovement within a week but they can remain infectious for up to 8 weeks  after symptoms have disappeared. Some horses will remain carriers for months.

 A horse that has had Strangles should be checked for carrier status before being taken out of isolation. This is done over a 2 week period  via throat / guttural pouch swabs, 3  negative swabs in 2 weeks indicates that the horse is clear and can return to contact with other horses. 

Prevention:

Ideally any new horse entering a yard should be quarantined for 3-4 weeks and closely monitored.

Maintain strict hygiene at all times.

 

Equine Atypical Myopathy (EAM) Symptoms, Treatment, Prevention and What to do if you suspect Equine Atypical Myopathy

Equine Atypical Myopathy (EAM) is a life threatening equine disease that interferes with the uptake and use of glucose in the muscles. Under 5's and old horses (20 and over) are often, but not always, more susceptible.

Little  is known about the cause of Equine Atypical Myopathy (EAM), it effects horses at pasture so may be due to ingestion of a pasture derived toxin. It is extremely serious with a mortality rate of some 89% early veterinary care is essential for a horse to have a chance of survival.

Symptoms include:

Dark coloured urine.

Muscle stiffness unrelated to exercise.

Muscle tremors.

Lethargy.

Complete collapse, horses have been found dead in their field.

Some cases show colic like symptoms.

Choke like retching neck spasms.

Frienzied vocalisation.

Vigorous head shaking / nodding.

Difficult or laboured respiration however in some cases temperature, heart rate and breathing remain normal in others the horse suffers from hypothermia. Also many horses suffering from EAM will be hungry and want to eat, even when lying down.

What to do if you suspect Equine Atypical Myopathy (EMA)

Call the vet immediately this is an emergency.

If your horse can still move try to get it to shelter / stable where it can receive care. Do not attempt to move the horse far as movement aggravates muscle destruction.

Keep the horse warm.

Offer small amounts of food but be sure that the horse can swallow.

Offer sugar and sugar water. again be sure the horse can swallow.

Try to collect a urine sample it will help in making a quick diagnosis.

All healthy horses should also be removed from the grazing and monitored for at least 72 hours for signs of Equine Atypical Myopathy.

Grazing where Equine Atypical Myopathy has occured should not be used during the Spring or Autumn.

Treatment:

Intensive intravenous fluid therapy will be required for your horse to stand a chance of survival. Anti-inflammatories, insulin, glucose, vitamin c and carnitine may all be administered by IV.

Prevention:

Equines should not be grazed on pasture during Spring or Autumn where Equine Atypical Myopahy has previously occured.

Equine Atypical Myopathy is more prevalent during Spring and Autumn, consider stabling equines at risk during these periods.

Horses vaccination and de-worming should be kept up to date.

Give supplementary feeding to ensure good body condition.

Water should be kept fresh and changed regularly.

Remove toxic plants, moulds and dead leaves from pasture.

Keep manure removed from pasture.

Ensure hay is mould free and do not ground feed in a humid environment.

For more information  on Equine Atypical Myopathy  visit the Equine Atypical Myopathy website a site dedicated to owners of horses and equine veterinarians facing a suspected case of atypical myopathy of grazing horses. The mission of the site is to distribute the knowledge relative to the condition, to collect information about cases around the world, to sort out preventive measures and to connect researchers trying to identify the cause of atypical myopathy.  Furthermore, alert messages are displayed on the front page of the site as soon as outbreaks are recorded by the Atypical Myopathy Alert Group (AMAG).  The AMAG consists of veterinarians and researchers involved with clinical cases of atypical myopathy. 

The Rules for Watering Your Horse

Wherever possible your horse should always have a constant supply of clean fresh water.

Otherwise your horse should be watered, before feeding, at least 6 times a day in the summer, 3 times a day in the winter.

Standing water becomes unpalatable so change water twiice a day.

Make sure troughs / water buckets / automatic waterers are kept clean, do not allow green algae to build up.

A hot, tired horse or one who has been deprived of water should not be allowed to gorge themselves, frequently offer small amounts until thirst is quenched.

There is no need to deprive a horse of water before work.

Horses will sometimes become dehydrated due to heavy sweating, body salts should be replaced by adding electrolytes to water or food.

If possible offer slightly warm water in winter and to horses who are hot and tired.

 

Mud Fever and how to avoid your horse getting it

Mud Fever also known as greasy heel and pastern dermatitis occurs when the pasterns remain persistently wet. The skin is softened and bacteria becomes trapped in the dirt and dead skin leading to inflammation,  cracking of the skin and sores. Constant flexing and movement inhibits healing and the scabs that form provide more protien for the bacteria, such as Dermatophilus congolensis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus spp,to feed on and breed. Oozing scabs matt the hair and trap even more bacteria. Secondary bacteria infections may cause swelling.

Prevention of Mud Fever, although sometimes difficult especially in winter, is better than cure.

Top tips to prevent Mud Fever include:

Keeping your horse away from mud as much as possible by moving them off muddy fields, remember short grass is less wetting than long.

Try to prevent horses from standing in muddy gateways by fencing off the mud and feeding elsewhere.

Fence off any standing water.

Keep legs as dry as possible, light mud can be brushed off when dry. If mud needs to be hosed off do it quickly and dry the legs thoroughly with disposable paper towels. Cloth towels will quickly get covered with bacteria.

Dry pasterns with paper towels after riding.

Consider trimming feathers.

Barrier creams such as Sudacreme or a proprietary cream specifically for prevention of Mud Fever can be used on healthy dry skin but do not apply to wet skin. When applied to wet skin they are trapping moisture and bacteria.

Consider stabling susceptible horses, make sure bedding is clean and dry

The use of Mud Fever boots can help to prevent Mud Fever.

Check pasterns daily, at the first sign of Mud Fever treatment should be as follows:

Move the horse into a dry enviroment.

Remove scabs carefully with an antibacterial solution that contains chlorhexidine such as Hibiscrub or iodine such as Pevidine and dry, carefully and gently, using disposable paper towels.

Keep the area dry, water is the enemy in pastern dermatitis.

If swelling occurs or the pasterns are very inflammed and painful call the vet your horse may need a course of antibiotics and the vet may prescripe a corticosteriod or topical antibiotic cream.

Remember prevention is better than cure.

 

Horses and fireworks

As we all know  animals are terrified of fireworks and this includes most horses so extra care needs to be taken at times when people are more likely to be having firework displays such as Guy Fawkes and New Year.

Forewarned is forearmed, so keep an eye out in the local press etc for advertisements for firework displays in your area. If you know your horse is very scared of fireworks you might consider sedation, your vet will be able to supply Sedalin which will help to keep your horse calm. Also if you know there is to be a firework display near you you can arrange to stay with the horse while it is going on.

Generally we wouldn't advise that you change your horses routine as this will only cause additional stress. If your horse is stabled an extra thick bed well banked around the sides will help prevent injury or casting, remember to check carefully for anything that the horse could injure itself on. If your horse is out at grass make especially sure that fences and gates are in good repair.

It's always worth talking to the organizers of firework displays or parties to warn them that there are horses in the area and to ask them to enusre that the fireworks are set off in the opposite direction to the horses.

Make sure that you have a fire procedure in place and the telephone numbers of the fire brigade and your vet to hand. Also check you have  third party liability insurance, if your horse does get out and causes damage you will be held liable for compensation.